PressCosmeceuticals
What are “Cosmeceuticals” and how do they differ from other cosmetic products?
Cosmeceuticals is a term originally coined by Dr. Albert Kligman, who worked with retinol in the early years. It combines the words “cosmetic” and “pharmaceutical” and stands for a niche type of cosmetics. The term has become popular and is often used for cosmetic products that contain active ingredients with scientifically documented positive biological and physiological effects on the skin.
In order to avoid confusion among our customers we always explain that our products are cosmetics, not pharmaceutical substances. They are known as cosmeceuticals because they resemble “advanced cosmetics” with a focus on the concentration of active ingredients in the product as well as an emphasis on scientifically documented effects.
The products are labelled cosmetics and adhere to the same standards and regulations as any other cosmetic skin care product.
Are Akademikliniken’s products natural and organic?
Our products are not classified as organic, but we try to use as many natural ingredients as possible. The word ”natural” signifies ingredients derived from plants or marine extracts.
There are more examples:
Pure Radiance Cleanser – botanical extracts such as apple, ginseng, honey and peach leaf extract
Pure Berry Toner – raspberry, grape extract and cranberry juice extract
Pure Antioxidant Crème – macadamia nut oil, extract of green tea and soy bean protein
Pure Recovery Crème– centella asiatica, coconut oil, extract of mimosa leaf and horse chestnut
We are striving to use ingredients and extraction methods as organic as possible. In those products which are to be washed off, we always try to use environmentally friendly ingredients that won’t have a negative impact on the environment. An example of this is a key ingredient (10%) in Pure Radiance Cleanser, Proteol APL. Proteol APL is a natural fruit surfactant which is extracted from essential amino acids in apples. It has natural foaming agents, is gentle on the skin and eyes and is thought of as an organic surfactant. It is biodegradable and contributes to environmental care.
Whenever possible we also use synthetically manufactured ingredients, such as peptides. We think that by using the best of both worlds, science and nature, we can develop excellent products.
I have read that parabens in skin care products can be harmful. Does Akademikliniken use parabens in its products?
Much has been written about parabens in the last few years. The interest is understandable since about 80% of all cosmetics use parabens as a preservative. Parabens (Methyl, Butyl and Ethyl) with a concentration level of up to 0,8% are allowed in the EU and are an effective weapon against fungus which may otherwise attach itself to chemical products.
When we developed our skin care range we had a choice between a series of different preservation methods. We wanted to use the most efficient one, but also the safest and most environmentally friendly. After extensive studies and research, Akademikliniken launched a skin care range primarily focusing on our customers’ and patients’ safety.
Today, only two of our 16 products contain parabens: Pure Berry Toner and Pure Repair Night. There are particular reasons for this.
Pure Berry Toner has a high concentration of grape- and berry extracts (more than 30%) and is therefore more prone to bacteria. We chose parabens because they were the most efficient preservative in this case.
PureRepair Night also contains parabens, but only one per cent of an ingredient, retinol, because it plays an important part in the final formula.
We continue to study the facts and follow the advice of the Medical Products Agency, at the same time as we keep ourselves updated on EU regulations on parabens and other preserving agents.
Among other preserving agents we use are o-cymen-5-ol and chlorphenesin, as well as natural botanical alternatives such as extract of rosemary.
I have very sensitive skin. Can I use your products?
Lately, the term “sensitive skin” has become more frequent. Many people feel that their skin is sensitive and are disturbed by this. Redness, irritation, acne, dry or flaky skin can occur and it is not easy to know what has caused this. Certain substances, such as Sodium Laurel Sulphate (which often exists in cleaning products) can destroy the natural protective barrier of the skin.
If you are oversensitive to a specific cosmetic product it is a good idea to test it on a small area the first time you use a similar product. Use a small amount of product on, for example, your lower arm for a few days, and wait and see if a reaction occurs. We also suggest the slow introduction of a new product to a skin care routine, if possible only one product at a time to allow for any reactions to appear.
Akademikliniken does everything it can to minimize the risk of allergies or reactions by conducting various tests on a group of volunteers. There is always a risk that somebody might suffer a reaction to a product, but we try to minimize this likelihood as much as possible. In addition, we also use ingredients which are well-known for their ability to reduce inflammation and irritation in our EXTRACARE range, such as:
EXTRACARE CLEANSER
Stimu-tex®: (Spent grain wax, Butyrospermum parkii extract, Argania spinosa kernel oil) An active ingredient that efficiently treats very dry, irritable skin, protects against allergies and histamine-inducing reactions.
RhamnosoftHP®: (Biosaccharide gum-2) – prevents inflammation
EXTRACARE TONER
AlphaBisabolol: A natural, anti-inflammatory ingredient with a soothing effect
Abyssine®: (AlteromonasFerment Extract) Used in products for sensitive, reactive skin. Abyssine is a unique, active ingredient from the sea with a soothing effect on the skin.
Aloe Vera gel: Has healing and soothing properties.
EXTRACARE LOTION
Antileukine6®: Encaprylic/capric triglyceride, extract from Laminaria and roleuca with a proven effect on sun-damaged skin, redness and swelling.
What happens if I have a reaction after using a product?
Despite extensive tests, a certain part of the population may still have a reaction against a single ingredient. This is very hard to avoid, which is why we always encourage customers to test the product first on a smaller area or on the lower arm before using the product daily. Apart from this it is a good idea to introduce new products into a skin care routine gradually, rather than to suddenly start using several new products and run the risk of an ”overdose”.
Many customers experience a slight burning sensation the first few times after using a new product, which disappears after a few days. Some people experience a temporary deterioration of the skin such as a rash when first starting to use Pure Repair Night, because of the active retinol it contains.
Sometimes a customer realises that a certain product isn’t right for their skin type or that it should only be used seasonally.
If you suffer a serious reaction or an uncomfortable one, or if you need medical care, stop treatment immediately and contact: cosmeceuticals@ak.se You can also call us on: +46 (0)8 614 54 36.
I have started to notice fine lines around the eyes that I have never seen before. I am 28 years old and I wonder if I should start using an eye cream now – and whether it is necessary?
The ageing process is unique for everybody and can start sooner or later depending on many different factors, including genetic background, life style, sun exposure, smoking and other habits. Most people notice the first signs of ageing in their late 20s, early 30s, most often around the eyes.
Expression lines start to show and the skin loses about 1% collagen per year. In our 30s the effects of gravity start to show, collagen production ceases and sun damage becomes visible. An eye cream helps to smooth away fine lines and protect the delicate skin from further damage. We also recommend using sun protection to avoid further damage from UVA/UVB-rays.
When applying an eye cream, gently pat the product into the skin over the bones surrounding the eye area. Many skin care ranges, including that of Akademikliniken, offer special eye products in a lighter formula – because a cream that is too rich can cause skin irritation. Pure Effect Eyes has been developed especially for the delicate eye area and has a unique cream/gel consistency. This enables the product to efficiently penetrate the skin and soften the skin around the eyes. It protects both day and night.
Pure Effect Eyes contains one of the latest discoveries in peptides, Palmitoyl pentapeptide Matrixyl™, with a clinically documented effect on the reduction of lines and wrinkles around the eye area.
Our eye cream Pure Effect Eyes contains 15 ml but lasts a long time since only a small amount of product is used each time. Pure Effect Eyes is ophtalmologically tested, which means it has undergone specific tests to ascertain that it does not cause allergies in the eye area.
I have noticed that my skin has become drier of late. Before, I didn’t have dry or oily skin but “normal” – now that I have turned 45 my skin almost always feels dry and sallow. What can I do about this?
What you describe is very common. The older we get, the drier the skin becomes, and in this way gradually loses part of its elasticity. In our 40s there is a natural decrease in the skin’s sebum production and fine, dry lines turn into wrinkles.
To restore the natural moisture balance of the skin it is important to have a good cleansing routine which doesn’t disturb the skin’s natural protective barrier. Try Extra Care Cleanser followed by Extra Care Toner to gently remove dirt and make-up. The products have been especially developed for sensitive skin.
Apply a softening cream in the morning and evening, like Pure Antioxidant Crème, to moisturize and nourish the skin. To give your skin an extra boost and improve skin texture, try Pure Active Serum with a light concentration of alpha hydroxy acids (glykolic acid and salicylic acid). The active serum helps remove dead skin cells, which may make the skin look sallow and lifeless.
How long before I can see a result?
Most of our patients and customers say that they have seen a relatively quick improvement in skin texture, glow and moisture level, from a few days to a few weeks. Depending on the cells’ ability to renew themselves and the time it takes to rebuild and repair the skin’s collagen and elastin, improvements will show after one to three months’ consistent use of the products.
Akademikliniken encourages patients and customers to go for a skin consultation where before/after pictures are taken to document effect. Changes to the skin, such as fine lines or a levelling out of pigmentation, can be subtle and gradual. We often see dramatic change when we look at the results over a longer period. Many factors play a part – skin type, fitness, life style (smoking, sun exposure), other treatments as well as expectations.
The philosophy of Akademikliniken is to offer information about healthy skin care routines and to encourage regular use and a healthy life style. We don’t promise sensational results, but healthy skin – our aim is to exceed your expectations.
Should my boyfriend use products especially developed for his skin, or can he use Akademikliniken’s products?
The answer is yes! Even though men’s skin is different from women’s (hair growth, how often the skin is shaved, the size of the pores, thickness and a lesser need for softening cream because of hormonal differences) the similarities are greater than the differences. Men often suffer from dry, irritable skin after shaving, drying soap products, etc. Sun damage such as fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation changes is another argument for men using products that protect the skin. It is increasingly common for men to use products which increase wellbeing, and their interest in anti-ageing products has also increased.
We see many male consumers using our website. All of 15% of our customers are men, who shop there regularly. Many have started by using just one product, like Pure Lift Serum, Pure Effect Eyes, or Pure Radiance Cleanser and have gone on to using the whole programme.
Akademikliniken’s products have neutral packaging and are therefore appealing to both men and women. We hope to offer products just for men sometime in the future, but until then we appreciate the enthusiasm that men show for our current products.
What type of scents do you use in your products?
Some products contain scents which are always listed among the ingredients, such as perfume (fragrance). However, we never use the 26 allergy-inducing scents identified by the EU which can provoke allergic reactions. Some products contain natural or botanical ingredients with a natural aroma that gives the product its special scent.
Other products, like Pure Effect Eyes and Extra Care Lotion contain no perfume at all, in order to further minimize the risk of allergies. We have received many positive comments about the scents used in our products – scent is an important part of the emotional and physical attraction of a product. Scents can also have a positive influence on one’s mood and wellbeing.
The apprehension of a smell is down to the individual, we all have different preferences. It is up to all of us to explore and find out our own preferences. We always aim to present our ingredients in a way that makes it as easy as possible for the customer to make a choice.
I have rosacea, can I use your products?
Since rosacea is classified as an illness we do not have the permission to recommend our products since they are cosmetics, not medicines. To be on the safe side, we always encourage customers to consult a doctor and receive a correct diagnosis before starting to use a new product range. A test can be done on a small area to see whether the product causes a reaction. For someone who suffers from rosacea it is vital to use suitable skin care products.
Rosacea makes the skin extra sensitive, which is why dermatologists often recommend gentle cleansers and softeners, sun lotions, etc. We have taken this into account when developing our Extra Care Cleanser, Extra Care Toner and Extra Care Lotion. Consult a doctor to find out if our products are suitable for you.
Why can’t I use the same cream both morning and night?
You can – most of the time! In some ways it is a myth created by the beauty industry that you need different products day and night. However, the skin recovers and repairs itself at night, and may then need a more nourishing product. Many people feel it is nice and comfortable to use one product during the day and another one at night. In some cases two different softening products are preferable. During the day we are exposed to environmental factors such as pollution, sun and wind. We may need a lighter cream that works well under make-up. It is also important to use additional sun protection to prevent sun damage from occurring. In certain cases ingredients like retinol (in Pure Repair Night) may make the skin more sensitive to sunlight and is therefore recommended for night-time use. One reason why Pure Antioxidant Crème is one of our bestselling products is that it can be used both day and night and is the ultimate formula – it has a light consistency with an extremely softening effect. That is why it is called our ”24-hour-cream”!
It is also important to take life styles and wishes into account. Many people are able to spend a bit more time on their skincare routine at night and choose to use both a softening cream, a serum and an eye cream. How we establish our skincare routine is a personal thing – let your skincare specialist help you design the right programme for you.
Do I really need special products to exfoliate? Doesn’t my skin take care of this on its own?
Your skin sheds the top layer of dead skin cells naturally. This happens continuously, every day we lose thousands of dead skin cells. We can hasten the process with a mechanical peel (e.g. a scrub glove) or a chemical peel with glycolic acid or milk acid, which is part of both the Pure Active Serum and Pure Radiance Cleanser.
When dead skin cells are removed, the skin appears more even and softer with improved luminosity and texture. The likelihood that dead skin cells might block pores and cause acne is minimized. By helping the skin to remove dead skin cells, cell renewal increases – new skin cells reach the surface quicker. These skin cells are fitter and fuller, making the skin look healthier. AHA-acids (AlphaHydroxy Acids) increase the body’s glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and act as a softener in themselves. The skin tone gradually improves (after about 10-14 weeks) and a slight bleaching effect takes place since melatonin production is restrained.
If the skin is over-exfoliated, its natural barrier function may be damaged. That is why we have chosen to work with a certain percentage of acids in our products and also adjusted product recommendations to make sure that skin isn’t over-exfoliated. Remember to always use sun protection since exfoliation makes the skin a little more sensitive.
How long do the products last?
This question can be answered in two different ways – how long is it OK to use the product and how long does it actually lasts. Our products are developed to last for 30 months in an unopened state. Every product is supplied with a so-called batch number and a best-before date within this 30-month period. If your product approaches this date it doesn’t mean that it has lost its potency or gone bad – it only means that the product is recommended to be used within the 30-month period. It always depends on how the consumer has used the product and how the product has been stored.
A product should not be exposed to sunlight but be kept in a cool and dark place or at room temperature. If it is in a jar, use the spatula when applying the product to prevent bacteria from contaminating it. Make a habit of always washing your hands before the application, and also make sure that all jars are shut tight. It is often possible to decide whether a product can’t be used by looking at it and smelling it. Its consistency may alter and the smell seem a little ”sour”. If this is the case the product should be thrown away, whatever its sell-by-date.
Regarding the durability of a product, it obviously depends on how often it is used and how much is used. Some products that are used twice daily naturally finish sooner. Many people use too much product. For each product there are instructions about how much should be used (usually one or two squirts). In the end it is up to each person to decide on a suitable dose in consultation with a skin therapist. Usually a product lasts about three months.
If you have similar questions about the products you are welcome to contact cosmeceuticals@ak.se.
